We visited the Bull and Last in Highgate for a friend’s birthday lunch. It proved to be a great choice for our group, which included two-year-old twins, as it was basically full of women and children – indicative of its friendly, unstuffy approach to food service.
Saying that, the food has its challenging moments – not least the breaded duck tongue that formed part of the adventurous duck platter board. The board included some winners, in the form of a smooth duck pate, and some losers like the duck prosciutto, which, I’m told, tasted like sweets?!.
More successful perhaps was our fish platter – a board overflowing with marine delights including a very buttery potted shrimp, a delicate beetroot-cured gravadlax and a truly delicious smoked mackerel Spanish-style croquette - I could have happily guzzled a dozen.
As our two-year-old lunch buddies impressed us with their tool-making skills (using large caper berries on stalks to transport ketchup from their dad’s plate into their mouths) the rest of the gang tucked into pub standards, including mahusive, succulent, pink burgers. I tried a smoked haddock and cream tagliatelli, which was rich to the point of sickly – I couldn’t quite get through the mini portion I’d ordered in the vain hope of being 'good'. Pasta swimming in double cream with a raw egg yolk thrown on top for good measure wasn’t quite what I’d pictured.
Overall though, the food was very competent and there were some inventive touches, so it’s a thumbs up. You will get a warm welcome from the folks at the Bull and Last – even with a double-width buggy!